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It's pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of fall. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the combination of ginger, chili and jaggery gives it a lovely flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which provide so much more flavour to the strata of rice and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

National curry week begins around October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a flavorful, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? If you like, make the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and assemble everything on the occasion you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

Begin by preparing the curry base. Heat the ghee in a sizable, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and clove spices, and sauté for a few seconds. Stir in the onion slices and cook, frequently turning, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and reserve (for later use during the assembly).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, cook for a brief period, then mix in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric and coriander, and fry for a minute. Reduce to a gentle flame, stir in the yogurt and simmer for two minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, stir to coat in the spices, then cook for several minutes. Add the liquid, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, cover and simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure no sticking to the base of the pot. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then take off the heat.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Heat to boiling, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the layered dish, place a tablespoon of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in one portion the spiced vegetables, then top that with some the rice. Sprinkle half the saffron water, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Top with the rest of curry mixture, then arrange the remaining rice. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Seal with baking paper, cover with the lid, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas infuse the rice. Take out of the heat, leave to rest, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the lid and serve with yogurt sauce and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Hindi term "achari" describes seasoning a dish using pickling spices, and the mix includes mustard seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, hing and nigella, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. This mixture also appears in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a mortar, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the oil in a spacious skillet or kadhai on a medium heat. Introduce the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Add the ginger, cook for a short while, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and fry, stirring, for five minutes more.

Pour 50ml water to the pot, season with seasoning to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Add the jaggery, breaking up chunks a little, then add the mango powder, mix thoroughly and present hot with flatbreads or leavened bread.